Lancaster University Management School - 54 Degrees Issue 17

An industry dependent upon female consumers and workers, fashion perpetuates women’s discrimination and suffering. The fashion industry has a global revenue of approximately $2.5 trillion; and around 60million people work in garment factories. Between 70-80% of these factory workers are women, with millionsmore employed elsewhere within the industry. Women are also fashion’s biggest consumers, spending roughly 226% more than men on its products. Despite the essential role women play in the fashion industry, there is gender inequality in all corners. FROM TOP TO BOTTOM Women suffer gender inequality throughout fashion’s supply chains, from top leadership roles to those sewing our clothes. Despite making up the majority of consumers and 78% of fashion school students, women constitute less than 50% of designers and 14%of executives at top brands. Only 4.8%of CEOs of clothing companies listed in Fortune 500 are female, this increases to a meagre 12.5%when looking at Fortune 1000, and 26%of board members. The lack of female leadership in the boardroom is mirrored within garment factories. The women making our clothes bear the brunt of fashion’s gender inequality. Women within garment factories predominantly hold low-skilled, lowpaid jobs, whereas their managers and supervisors are overwhelmingly male. In conjunction with challenges of progressing into leadership roles, the gender pay gap amongst garment workers means women earn approximately 18% less than their male counterparts. Gender inequality manifests in a variety of ways within these garment factories. For example, the gender imbalance between workers and managers creates an imbalance of power. This can include female garment workers being subjected to sexual violence, harassment and even murder at the hands of their male management. Women are unequally affected by poor health and safety within factories, as some of the chemicals still used in garment production are known to negatively impact reproductive health and cause fertility issues. Alongside this, pregnant women are particularly vulnerable to abuse and discrimination. Some women face routine pregnancy testing, or in extreme cases are forced to consume contraceptives to prevent pregnancy. Often, women who do become pregnant are dismissed from their job, not provided with time off, and receive inadequate or nomaternity benefits. In some cases, pregnant women have beenmoved tomore physically demanding jobs within the factories as a punishment, which has caused serious health problems andmiscarriages. Long hours and forced overtime often put women in situations that are less safe. They are finishing late at night and have to travel or walk home in the dark. These issues are exacerbated by the lack of female leadership or representation in many labour unions within the garment industry, creating an additional barrier for women to overcomewhen it comes to gender inequality. PART OF THE PROBLEM Clothing consumption has increased 400% over the last two decades. The rapid growth of the garment industry, and the development of ‘fast fashion’, has greatly exacerbated abuses and issues. Previously, brands would release four seasons of clothing, but now there can be as many as 52 new lines a year. This has put exceptional pressure on suppliers to produce large volumes of garments at the lowest prices possible. 20 |

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